nEighter

Okay been thinking bout wind generation and I have some questions I have no answer for. Below is a REAL primitive design for a wind generator. This is going to be my first that I make. I will be using an alternator out of a car. ANYONE that has an extra alternator (that works) let me know.. I will be looking for MANY. Anyone off hand know how much an alternator goes for at the pick and pull?

1. What would be the best 360deg pivot for a "stand" ? My idea (at first) was to use galvanized tubing for this. But I am really not sure, cause it would have to freely move, not bind up.. so no slip type joints would work, not to mention once water would get in there and some form of corrosion would start... then it wouldn't move. The pole would have to pivot at the top so it could spin freely turning 360deg if it needs to.. Is there a type of sealed needle bearing?.. like a skateboard bearing only w/ needle type (thin)? That I could use for this?
2. Next how can I have a 360deg electrical connection? Meaning.. it has to spin, and granted it is not going to spin around and around, but will follow the wind. I need to be able to have some type of electrical connection that will allow it to do just this.. spin freely. Notice in the second drawing how the pink wires would go through the tubing into the pole that makes up the stand. I would think there would be some type of "contact & path" type deal like on electric race car tracks where the track is energized and the lil "pads" are the connections for the motor in the car. This way they would be able to turn but still complete the circuit. I wonder how much is lost using something like that, or how easily those things wear out.??

Those two things are what I am up against right now in the planning. Let me know if you know of any specific parts or any type of sealed bearing type deal I can use for this.

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nEighter

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Eddy

1) How I built an electricity producing wind turbine
2) DIY 1000 watt wind turbine - Instructables - DIY, How To, tech - Entry
3) Large 17' diameter wind turbine
Don't kill yourself.

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-Eddy

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Eddy

Oh and I assume this is for your home since its in the home section and not some crazy electric car scheme.

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-Eddy

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nEighter

and yes it is for the home

I emailed this company, pretty freaking sweet! It has a liquid mercury center so you get ALMOST the same signal as you would from a wire.. with a very minimal signal noise factor.


What part rotates?
In fact, either end can be attached to the rotating device. However, as described in answer
No. 5, it is preferable to mount rotating electrical connector so that the body rotates. The body and lower bushing are pressed together as one unit. The upper bushing
(as identified by the "UP" arrow on the body) is mounted to a ball bearing and turns independently of the body. Please see the rotating model below which shows the body and lower bushing rotating with the upper bushing stationary. If a unit needs to be mounted vertically, below the rotating device, then mounting the rotating electrical connecot by the upper bushing with the body floating stationary is acceptable. (top)

How are rotating electrical connector mounted?
Rotating electrical connectors are designed for mounting to the end of the rotating axis either in a vertical or horizontal attitude. The mounting method depends upon the rotating electrical model. The larger rotating electrical connectors typically are mounted into a hollow shaft or collar on the end of the rotating device either by the plastic bushing or the body. The rotating electrical connector can be held in place with a setscrew or a slotted clamp system. The smaller rotating electrical connectors plug into the electrical receptacle and use this both as the mounting and electrical connection. These receptacles are knurled and designed to be press fitted into a hole on the end of the rotating device. Eccentricity of the mounting should be less than .005” TIR. The preferable end of the rotating electrical connector to mount is with the body end rotating. Both ends of the rotating electrical connector should not be rigidly mounted; one end needs to float free. If needed, a floating torque arm may be used to prevent the stationary end from rotating. Please note that rotating electrical connectors are not designed to support any load.

Can rotating electrical connectors be used in damp or corrosive environments?
It depends on how damp or corrosive the environment is. While rotating electrical connectors are constructed of corrosion resistant materials they might not be suitable for all applications depending upon which corrosives they are exposed to. They also are not suitable to be used in “wet” environments without protection. Rotating electrical connectors are available with a stainless steel ball bearing for use in damp or corrosive environments. We also recommend the use of the accessory “Boot Kit” for additional protection with the Modular series models. This increases the IP protection rating of the rotating electrical connector to IP53.



and the bearing I will do like a wheel hub. I thought about it, and that is the way to go, then I could have a way to actually bolt it to the stand I am sure I can find a Timken bearing that will work

Oh hey thanks for the links BTW!

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madmatt

CHECK OUT THE BIG BRAINS ON BRADDDD!!!

Smart motherfucker Nate. Sure you dont want to go into mechanical engineering instead of computers or whatnot?

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stang_lover69

i didnt read this thread.

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The Dond


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nEighter

don't worry dawn.. didn't think most would. Actually matt that is what I am leaning toward. I am going to get an electrical engineering degree.. I could play with wires and circuit boards all day dude Funny how there is no real program/degree for true automated stuff. You have an automatic car wash.. it takes electrical knowhow, software knowhow, gears.. hydraulic pump/actuator knowhow, ... but there is no degree that I know of that specializes in that type of deal.

thanks matt.. I will keep you guys updated. I may buy one to see what they have done.. I dunno though.

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nEighter

w/ my alternator design it takes more spin = higher wind speeds to get it up to where it would produce power. To me the different blade designs don't seem to offer enough blade area to spin it with enough speed.. yeah with enough wind, but not enough to get it moving (producing power) @ slower winds speeds. It takes roughly 450rpm... meaning around 11 miles per hour I would start to produce power(VERY LITTLE).

SOOO I got to thinking about jet engines. They work off of crazy rotor designs. Jet engines produce AMAZING amounts of power, and believe it or not, 85% of said power goes to the compressor to compress the air.. the rest is what actually is produced as thrust for the engine to use for FLIGHT



Notice how the compressor (turbines ebb combustion chamber) fins spin and have director fins that are stationary to direct the air flow from the fins before it at a more aggressive angle which in turn causes that set of fins to spin harder (the ones before also).. this compresses the air.. like a turbo.. it does the same all throughout the "compressor" turbines to effectively speed the whole "section" up.. compressing the air.

This is why on that video above you see the first set not moving.. they are drawing the air in and "pressurizing" the air coming in (somewhat) so that the turbine that is actually producing the power is getting a more concentrated air charge.

That and all that spin from the different deflectors acts like a secondary turbo system. Kinda like turndowns do to the exhaust system. You your car going fast and the air rushing past your exhaust will actually help your exhaust system by vacuuming air out.. putting a negative charge on you exhaust causing the exhaust to be sucked out. Same as a ram air does for intake, it is pushed in, only in reverse

I would want more of a venturi style with mine, and a built in turbo swirl along with possibly another alternator set up rotating opposite with another compressor (stat) fin dumping into the rear power producing turbine. OR having the same setup as a jet engine with the alternator sitting back further and having a shaft that is hooked to multiple fins helping to drive the shaft faster/producing more torque for the shaft to spin...

ah the possibilities

I am going to check the pick and pull tomorrow for prices on old Taurus alternators.. hell they have so many of them I wouldn't see them being very expensive.

The only thing I see with this type of setup would be having to set up a different regulator than what comes with the alternator. I will be spinning this motha PRETTY damn fast. Oh and there is a conversion to change the alternator to high powered magnets as well.. more powah!!

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nEighter

Stormblade Turbine is More Efficient, Quietly Neighbor-Friendly

Nobody wants a wind turbine in their backyard, because the things are noisy and kill birds. But now inventors at Stormblade Turbine might have made the windmill a neighborhood-friendly device, solving that noise problem while doubling the efficiency of current turbines. This weird-looking jet engine-on-a-stick is somehow able to accelerate wind into its blades that are nestled safely in their enclosure, concentrating the breeze while keeping the birds and bats out of harm's way.
The prototype operates quietly in wind speeds from 7mph to 120mph, twice the range of conventional wind turbines, plus it's a lot smaller and easier to maintain. Install two of them next to each other and they'll look like a pair of eyes peering into the wind. Meanwhile, you'll be looking at selling power back to the electric company. – Charlie White




someone is reading my mind

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